Essential oils are concentrated plant extracts, usually steam distilled from leaves, flowers or wood, or cold pressed from citrus peel. A 10ml bottle holds the aroma of a large amount of plant material, which is why a few drops go a long way and why neat oil should not go straight onto your skin.
For most people at home the safe way to enjoy them comes down to five habits: dilute in a carrier oil before skin use, never swallow them, patch test anything new, keep them away from pets and small children, and store them somewhere cool and dark with the cap on.
The rest of this guide covers how to choose an oil, how much to use, and which oils need extra care.
Organic, pure and blends: what the label means
You will see three main kinds of bottle in the essential oils range:
- Organic essential oils come from plants grown to a certified organic standard. The oil itself is still a pure essential oil; organic describes how the plant was farmed.
- Pure essential oils are single oils without added carrier or fragrance, but the plants are not certified organic. The Garden of Flora range is in this group and is usually cheaper.
- Blends mix several essential oils for a particular scent, such as an energising or relaxing mix. Check the label for the oils inside, especially if you react to any of them.
Whichever you pick, look for the plant’s Latin name on the label (for example Melaleuca alternifolia for tea tree, Lavandula angustifolia for lavender), the part of the plant used and how the oil was produced. Dark amber or blue glass is a good sign, because light speeds up the breakdown of the oil.
How much to dilute
Aromatherapy suppliers and teachers give broadly the same starting points for skin use. Treat these as upper limits for everyday use, not targets.
| Use | Dilution | In a 10ml roller bottle |
|---|---|---|
| Body massage, adults | about 2 to 3% | about 4 to 6 drops |
| Face, sensitive skin, older adults | about 0.5 to 1% | 1 or 2 drops |
| Children over 5 | 1% or less | no more than 2 drops |
| Bath | 3 to 6 drops in total | mixed into a carrier oil first |
A rough rule is that 1 drop in 5ml of carrier oil gives about a 1% blend. Mix in a clean glass bottle, label it with the oils and the date, and shake before use. The guide to choosing a carrier oil explains which base oil suits face, body and massage.
Never add neat essential oil straight to bathwater. Oil and water do not mix, so the drops float on the surface and can touch your skin undiluted. Mix them into a spoonful of carrier oil first.
Patch testing and who should take extra care
Before using a new oil or blend on a large area, put a little of the diluted mix on the inside of your forearm and leave it for 24 hours. Redness, itching or swelling means that blend is not for you.
Take extra care, and ask a pharmacist, GP or qualified aromatherapist first, if you:
- are pregnant or breastfeeding,
- want to use oils on or around babies and young children,
- have asthma, epilepsy or a long-term skin condition,
- take regular medication.
Do not swallow essential oils or put them in drinks, and keep them out of eyes, ears and other sensitive areas. Store bottles where children cannot reach them; most come with a dropper insert that slows the flow, but it is not childproof.
Citrus oils and sunlight
Some oils make skin more sensitive to UV light, which can lead to burning or dark patches where the oil was applied. The usual culprits are cold pressed citrus oils, including bergamot, lemon, lime, grapefruit and bitter orange. Steam distilled citrus oils and bergamot labelled FCF (with the furocoumarins removed) are not considered phototoxic.
Aromatherapy references advise keeping skin that has had a phototoxic oil on it out of the sun or a sunbed for 12 to 18 hours. In practice, use citrus oils in wash off products, in a burner, or on skin that will stay covered. Mandarin and sweet orange are generally regarded as low risk, but check the label.
Burners, mists and room scent
A simple ceramic oil burner warms water in a dish over a tea light, and a few drops of oil in the water scent the room. Fire services give the same advice for oil burners as for candles:
- Stand the burner on a flat, heat resistant surface away from curtains, shelves and draughts.
- Keep the dish topped up with water so it never boils dry.
- Never leave it burning unattended, and put it out before you leave the room or go to sleep.
- Keep it out of reach of children and pets.
The mists and fragrance ranges add pillow sprays, bath bombs and single oils used mostly for scent.
If you have a cat
Cats process many compounds in essential oils poorly, and vets advise against using diffusers or applying any oil to a cat. If you live with a cat, keep bottles shut away, do not use oils on your hands before stroking it, and ventilate rooms where you use a burner. Signs such as drooling, vomiting, wobbliness or breathing problems after exposure need a vet straight away.
Storing oils so they last
Oxygen, light and heat all break essential oils down. Oxidised oil smells flatter or sharper and is more likely to irritate skin. To slow this down:
- Keep the cap screwed on tightly.
- Store bottles upright in a cool, dark cupboard, not on a sunny windowsill or next to the bath.
- Buy 10ml sizes of oils you use rarely, rather than large bottles that sit half empty.
- Write the opening date on the label.
Citrus and pine oils oxidise fastest, so use them within about a year of opening. If an oil smells off or has turned cloudy, replace it.
Quick checklist
- Check the Latin name, plant part and dark glass bottle.
- Dilute for skin: about 2% for the body, 1% or less for the face.
- Patch test a new blend for 24 hours.
- Mix bath oils into a carrier first, never neat in the water.
- Keep cold pressed citrus oils off skin that will see the sun.
- Never swallow oils; store them out of reach of children.
- Ask a pharmacist or GP first in pregnancy or with a health condition.
- Keep oils, burners and diffusers away from cats.
Common questions
Can I put essential oil straight on my skin?
It is best not to. Neat oils can irritate or sensitise skin, and a reaction can build up over repeated use. Dilute in a carrier oil, cream or lotion first.
What is the difference between organic and pure essential oil?
Both should be undiluted essential oil. Organic means the plants were grown to a certified organic standard; pure means the oil is unadulterated but the plants are not certified. The scent and use are the same.
How long does an opened bottle last?
It depends on the oil. Citrus and pine oils are best used within about a year. Many other oils last longer if kept cool, dark and tightly closed. Replace any oil that smells different from when you opened it.
